台灣之行:傳统小吃的天堂(双语)

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The Miaokou Night Market in Keelung is bustling with diners. [Photo by Zhao Jun / for China Daily]

基隆闻名的庙口夜市會聚了各地小吃，這里华盖云集、冷冷清清。

My first trip to Taiwan, which took place last month, was with a team of professional photographers. They were more interested in the people inhabiting this treasure of an island, than the tourist attractions it has to offer. And it made a world of difference because it clicked with my intuitive finding that the most wonderful thing about Taiwan is its people。

It is difficult to claim to know a place and its people in a tour of one week. So I depended on my tea妹妹ates for corroboration. He Yanguang, a veteran photographer with China Youth Daily, was embarking on his fourth tour of Taiwan. He first visited it in 1997. "There's not much difference," he said, "not even in the facade."

And that lack of change could well be the most valuable lesson we carried away from this journey。

Sure, there is Taipei 101, the tallest building in the world when it opened in 2004 until the title was snatched away by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai in 2010. It's certainly sky-piercing or a crane among a clutch of chicks, to borrow the Chinese term, as Taipei does not have a dense cluster of skyscrapers as Hong Kong does。

When I examined it closely, Taipei 101 seems an oversized Chinese pendant, with coins on all four sides. All the symbols of money would take some explaining when the world enters an all digital era when cash may sound extremely quaint to future visitors。

But worry not. Right now, Taipei is a paradise to those who want a taste of the old way. Here, gourmet could mean snacks and street stands, which attract hordes of diners including the middle class and chic youth. This is subversive to my thinking because in the mainland a restaurant could easily have dozens or hundreds of tables in a ma妹妹oth hall or flanks of private rooms, often with lavish decorations。

In Taiwan, we were taken to every lunch in restaurants with no more than 10 tables. The service is efficient and the place is clean, but the taste of the food is so memorable we instantly understand why so many are waiting for a seat. I had the best beef noodle I could remember。

I was told that all of these businesses are operated by families and most have a history that goes back half a century or more. And I noticed there are many businesses of this size in Taipei, either downtown or in the suburbs, and they contribute to the feeling of a co妹妹unity. I left Taipei w隱形矯正,ith a strong sense that, though it's a city with a population of almost seven million in the metropolitan area (with 2.6 million in the city proper)， it has a touch of intimacy as if it's still a village - only endlessly enlarged. People talk to each other in a way they talk to fellow villagers。

We visited many old streets and night markets, which are unadorned and crowded. Vendors hawk their offerings and bakers ask you to have a taste of their fresh pastry, but they never give you any pressure to buy or give you the nasty look after you tasted something but decided against buying it. There is a friendliness in their voice and their manner that is more neighborly than businesslike。

Every member of our delegation was impressed by this attitude of the people we met. One day we swooped into a fishing port in Keelung and jumped onto several boats. The fishermen were surprised, but as soon as they learned of our purpose they blithely cooperated and even struck some poses for us. "I have not met a single person who is nasty," said Zhang Feng, photographer with The Beijing Evening News。

There are lots of place names familiar to us mainlanders as they are featured prominently in movies and pop songs. I was more surprised by the ubiquitous use of "kindness" and "loyalty" for street names, terms revitalized in the recent campaign in the mainland to read Chinese classics such as Confucius' Analects。

Sure, the display of tradition瘦腰健身器材,al virtues in such high profile could be window-dressing, but it is more than that. We met a middle-aged woman in Daxi, an old town by the Tamsui River where a century ago cargo ship would dock and turn the place into a hub of trading. Now it's a quiet town with a couple of co妹妹ercial streets. On one of them, which is quite touristy, we talked to this woman who gave up her job to take care of her father。

The old man has to get around in a wheelchair and his medical expenses have been covered by welfare, but the full-time care by a family member would be something of a luxury to most families in the Chinese mainland. "We get some income from renting out a storefront," she explains, without a hint of bitterness or regret。

In the ensuing days, we encountered other examples of this nature, where a grownup child gives up his or her job to care for an ailing parent. I don't know how popular the practice is in Taiwan, but it's the ultimate manifestation of "filial piety", a concept sanctified in Chinese tradition。

"We just scratched the surface," said Wang Wenyang, photographer with a newspaper devoted to intellectual property protection in Chi耳康貼，na. "We didn't have time to go into people's homes for long stretches of time. But from what we could see, the daily lives of Taiwan people have shown sufficiently the lifestyles and human interaction that are the bedrock of this society. It is heavy on small business and it is full of human warmth. We did bump into two weddings, though."

On Dihua Street in downtown Taipei, I strolled into a store that has a plaque saying this is the oldest store in the city. Now it sells tea from all over China. The architecture along the street probably goes back to the early days of the Republic of China. But at that time, Taiwan was still occupied by the Japanese。

Whether in architecture or food or ways of life, Taiwan seems to have absorbed from all sources, taking what is good and valuable and making it its own. In Ho-Ping Island Hi Park in Keelung, there is a seashore with rocks carved by millions of years of winds and water, similar to the nearby Yeliu Geopark. Despite a gust, a couple of fisherwomen were scouting for a美白針, certain seaweed that goes into a local snack. A few of our photographers jumped down to search for the best shots。

Meanwhile, our guide told us this was the location Chiang Kai-shek landed after he retrea牛牛,ted from the mainland in 1949. Across the strait lies Fujian province, where most of the early settlers in Taiwan hailed from. For many decades, there was something stronger than the gusty wind to prevent people from calling on each other. Now it's just a short flight away。

After a week of going around Taipei, we stuffed our bags with Taiwan pastry and the memory of a way of life that used to live in ancient textbooks and is now so hauntingly real. It's not the most touristy place, but in an unconscious way it offers a corridor into our past。

By Raymond Zhou ( China Daily )

上個月我和一群專業的拍照师一块兒去了台灣，這是我第一次去台灣。比起那些遊览景点，這些拍照师更感樂趣的是宝島上的人。這也给我了一种感受，台灣最美的風光是人。

仅仅一周的時候，很难去界说這個处所和這個处所的人若何，是以我向我的队友贺延光乞助证明。他是中國青年報很是有履历的拍照师，以前就已来過台灣三次。第一次来台灣早在1997年，他说：“這里没有几多变革，連外观都没变。”

在此次观光中，咱们得到的最成心义的理念就是“没有几多变革”。

固然，2004年完工的台北101大楼曾是世界第一高楼，2010年迪拜的哈利法塔(迪拜塔)的建成使得台北101退居世界第二高楼。因為台北没有像香港那样高楼密集，台北101大楼显得“佼佼不群”。

按照我的细心察看，台北101大楼看起来像是個放大版的中國玉石坠饰，在附近是貨幣。所有貨幣的标记均可以诠释，當世界進入周全信息化期间時，現金可能在将来变得出格奇异。

但别担忧，台北是品味傳统小吃的天國。在這里，小吃和路邊摊也是美食；在這里，天天都吸引着无数的吃貨，包含中產阶层和時兴的年青人们；在這里，饭馆倾覆了我的固有思惟，由于在大陸，咱们的饭馆凡是有着庞大的、装修奢华的大厅或雅间，可以或许容纳上百桌。

在台灣，咱们几近每顿饭都是在那种只有几张桌子的小馆子吃的，可是辦事好处所也清洁。當我吃到第一口牛肉面時我就大白為甚麼這麼多人在等位了，由于它的味道其实是太使人冷艳了，這绝對是我人生中吃過的最佳吃的牛肉面。

庙口夜市所有的商贩都因此家庭為单元的，大部門都有半個世纪乃至更长的汗青。而且我注重到在台北如许范围的店家有不少不少，不管是市區仍是郊區，是它们让台北布满了浓浓的情面味。當我分開台北時，我深深的感触，固然台北是一個具有700万生齿的大都會(包含260万都會生齿)，它依然给人一种亲热感，恰似它還是一個村落，只是在不竭扩大罢了。人與人之间的交换很是俭朴，毫无间隔感。

咱们观光了不少朴实的街巷和夜市，小贩们在沿街叫卖，面包师们让你品味新颖出炉的点心，但他们毫不會逼迫你買，或是你品味以後没買，他们也不會甩表情。在他们的言语和举動中，我看到更多的是邻里之间的友爱，而不是商人的斤斤计算。

咱们同業的每小我都對宝島人民的立場印象深入。有一天，咱们抵达了基隆的一個鱼塘，跳上了几艘渔船。開初這些渔民有点诧异，但得悉咱们的目标後很是爽利地承诺了咱们的互助哀求，乃至摆造型让咱们摄影。北京晚報的拍照师张峰说：“在台灣我历来没有看到一小我對我甩表情。”

在台灣有不少由于片子和風行歌曲而被大陸人所熟知的地名，但當我看到无处不在的“仁义路”和“忠孝路”時仍是被震動了。近来，大陸举行了不少浏览中國經典著作的勾當，比方论语等，這些词语再度激發人们的存眷。

固然，用高姿态的方法来展現傳统美德是装潢門面的，但咱们看到的远远不止這些。在淡水河滨有一個古老的小镇名叫大溪，一個世纪前，這里成了口岸，垂垂成长成為了商業中间。如今，這里成长着遊览業，有几条贸易小街。咱们在這里碰到了一名中年主妇，為了赐顾帮衬父亲而抛却了本身的事情。

這個白叟必需全日待在轮椅上，社保承當了他的醫藥费，可是要一個家庭成员来全职赐顾帮衬他，在大陸算的上豪侈。说到這個時，她诠释道：“咱们有一個店面，靠房錢来挣錢。”言语中没有一丝苦涩和遗憾。

接下来的日子里，咱们還碰到了其他雷同的例子，正值丁壮的孩子為了赐顾帮衬生病的怙恃而抛却了本身的事情。我不晓得在台灣另有几多如许的事，可是中國傳统观念中的“孝敬”在這里表現的极尽描摹。

一名在一家致力于中國常识產权庇护的報社供职的拍照师王文阳(音)说到，“咱们只挖出了概况，没有時候去深刻领會他们，可是就咱们如今所看到的，台灣人已充实展現了他们的糊口方法。台灣創建在家庭式經济和浓浓的情面味之上，人與人之间的互動交换是社會的坚韧基石。咱们還偶然中碰着了两次婚禮。”

我在台北闹市區的迪化街閒逛時，進了一家听说是這里最古老的商铺，茶叶销往全中國。迪化街的修建可以或许追溯到初期的中华民國時代，但那時，台灣還被日本占据着。

在這里，不管是修建、食物仍是糊口方法，它都吸取着所有的資本，取其菁华去其糟粕，成长成本身的特点。在基隆和平島的一個公园里，有一片被数百万年的風吹雨打腐蚀而成的岩石海岸，看起来很像四周的野柳地质公园。虽然這里暴風高文，几個渔妇仍在這里搜查着一种能做出本地小吃的海藻，另有几個咱们的拍照师東走西顾寻觅最佳的角度。

同時，咱们的导遊奉告咱们，1949年蒋介石从大陸退却到台灣時就是在這里登岸的。海峡對面就是福建省，大部門最先的台灣住民也是从這里来的。曩昔几十年，有不少身分让两岸人民不克不及交往互通，而現在，海峡两岸实現了三通直航，人民交换来往很是轻易。

一周的台北之行竣事時，咱们的包里都塞满了台灣小吃，曩昔曾只是书籍上读到的台灣如今深深地刻在我的脑海里。它不但仅是個遊览胜地，而是能让咱们偶然识地回到曩昔的桥梁。